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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might expect well-known award-winning venues. However, tucked near the top among these culinary titans is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Surprise Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This accolade has made the family utterly surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” remarks a family member, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their modest restaurant earning such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has kept much of its former charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender consistency.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this culinary triumph.